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The Ghost of Christmas Past: 5 Ancient Indian Churches That Look Like Temples (And Why You Must Visit Them)

When most people think of a church, they imagine Gothic spires, stained-glass windows, and European stonework. But if you travel deep into the backwaters of Kerala, the hills of the Deccan, or the coastal hamlets of the South, you will encounter the “Ghost of Christmas Past”—a version of Christianity that doesn’t look Western at all.

In these ancient sacred spaces, you don’t find pews; you find mandapams. You don’t see marble statues; you see wood-carved murals that resemble Vedic art. There are churches in India where the cross sits atop a granite Deepastambham (lamp tower) and the entire layout follows the ancient principles of Vastu Shastra.

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This is the story of “Indian Christianity” an architectural and cultural fusion that predates the British by nearly 1,500 years. Here are 5 ancient Indian churches that challenge every stereotype you have about Christmas.

1. Paliakkara Church, Thiruvalla (The Living Mural Gallery)

If you walked into the Paliakkara Church in Kerala without seeing the altar, you might think you’ve entered an ancient royal palace or a Hindu temple.

  • The Temple Connection: The walls are covered in exquisite murals painted with natural vegetable dyes, depicting biblical scenes in the traditional Kerala temple art style. The figures have the same postures, ornaments, and facial features found in the murals of the famous Padmanabhaswamy Temple.
  • Why Visit: It is a rare example of how early Indian Christians (the Nasranis) expressed their faith through the indigenous artistic language of the land.

2. St. Mary’s Forane Church, Kuravilangad (The Granite Giant)

Legend says this church was established in 335 AD. What makes it striking is the presence of a massive 80-foot granite cross standing right in front of the entrance.

  • The Temple Connection: The use of a monolithic stone cross is a direct adaptation of the Dhvajastambha (flagstaff) found in Hindu temples. During festivals, the base of this cross is lit with thousands of small oil lamps (Chuttuvilakku), creating a spectacle that mirrors temple deepotsavs.
  • Vastu Alignment: The church follows an East-West orientation, strictly adhering to the Thatchu Shastra (the Kerala version of Vastu), ensuring the structure harmonizes with natural elements.

3. St. Philomena’s Cathedral, Mysore (The Gothic-Royal Hybrid)

While its exterior is Neo-Gothic (inspired by the Cologne Cathedral in Germany), its soul is deeply rooted in the royal patronage of the Wodeyar Kings of Mysore.

  • The Fusion: The Maharaja of Mysore himself laid the foundation stone, and the interior incorporates local motifs. It is one of the few places where you can see the local royal seal alongside Christian iconography.
  • The Vibe: It represents a time when Indian royalty viewed Christianity not as a colonial import, but as another petal in the flower of Indian diversity.

4. Cheraman Juma Masjid-Style Churches (The Early Coastal Aesthetic)

Before the Portuguese arrived with their Baroque style, early churches in the Malabar region looked exactly like traditional Kerala houses or mosques.

  • The Temple Connection: These structures lacked spires. Instead, they had sloping tiled roofs, wooden gables, and open courtyards (Aangan). They used heavy timber joinery without a single iron nail—a technique perfected by temple architects.
  • The Offering: Even today, in some of these ancient parishes, devotees offer lotus flowers and oil for lamps, much like the offerings made at a local shrine.

5. Kaduthuruthy Valiapally (The Wooden Marvel)

This church is a masterpiece of woodcraft. The altar is a dizzying array of intricate wood carvings that look like they belong in a 10th-century Hoysala temple.

  • The Detail: You will find carvings of elephants, peacocks, and floral creepers surrounding the figures of saints. The use of the lotus motif—the seat of divinity in Indian culture—is prominent throughout the woodwork.
  • The History: It stands as a silent witness to a time when Indian Christians were an integral part of the local caste and social hierarchy, long before the “Westernization” of the faith began.

Why This Matters Today

Visiting these churches during the Christmas long weekend isn’t just a travel choice; it’s a history lesson. It proves that India didn’t “copy” Christmas from the West. Instead, India took the message of the East and dressed it in silk, sandalwood, and granite.

These churches are a reminder that the “Ghost of Christmas Past” in India is wearing a dhoti, offering a lotus, and smelling of fresh incense and coconut oil.

Quick Travel Tips for the 2025 Long Weekend:

  1. Respect the Rituals: Many of these churches require you to remove your footwear before entering the inner sanctum.
  2. Photography: Always ask permission; many ancient murals are sensitive to camera flashes.
  3. Local Cuisine: If you’re in Kerala for these churches, don’t miss the Appam and Vegetable Stew—the ultimate “Temple-Style” Christian breakfast.

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